I always thought that city trips are best not to be done in winter: In December 2015 in Budapest, I was finally taught otherwise: 130 hot springs render Budapest despite freezing outside temperatures to the hottest winter destination in Europe. The new-baroque Széchenyi Thermal Bath lures bathers with nightly pool parties. During my visit there was a chess tournament under steam going on. Everybody I talked to was hoping that freedom of press will not be set checkmate soon…