Nothing had prepared me for the Galapagos: Ecuador has volcanoes, rainforest and the Pacific coast. These landscapes alone would make it the most diverse country in South America. When we first set foot on the xX island in the Galapagos we still felt a bit like Darwin in 1835. Marine iguanas in all colors were sitting on black rocks eating algae, huge turtles were feeding in the grass while dozens of manta rays were cruising the rough seas. Frigate birds were trying to seduce a mate by inflating their scarlet neck pouches. Astonishingly we could approach any animal as close as we desired and deemed appropriate. They seemed to be free of any fear to be harmed by humans – a unique wildlife experience we did not enjoy at any other place! Finally I was asking myself whether frigate birds would also lack the human fear of not finding a suitable mating partner?