Lots of oil money, good governance and spectacular natural beauty – few countries excel in all these domains as much as Norway. In 2012 I took a northbound Hurtigrouten ship from Bergen, heading 1200 nautical miles along the Norwegian coast to Kirkenes. Hurtigrouten! I love the name, I love the concept of connecting Norway’s gentle south with its remote wild north and I love the cosy old-fashioned vibe which avoids any cruise ship atmosphere. Not long after our ship MS Vesterålen had left Bergen, the nature-sculptured beauty of Norway’s spectacular coast unfolded. Nautical mile by nautical mile, the sea got wilder, the towering cliffs higher, plunging dramatically into the icy waters of the North Atlantic. Only when our ship turned into one of the jagged fjords carved deep into the heart of Norway’s landmass, the waters became more tranquil. 200 miles from Bergen, Geiirangerfjord reflected the majesty of snow-capped peaks and verdant forests. Above the trees, tiny farms looked like draped toys, defiantly clinging to steepest slopes. 

Huges waves were slowing down our crossing from Bodø to the Lofoten archipelago. It was late afternoon as the sky turned into a wall of dark clouds giving the last rays of sunshine a hard time. I thought how difficult a Hurtigrouten voyage must haven been in early times, during the long, dark winters, as waters were then mostly unchartered. The first rugged peaks of the Lofoten were rising out of the sea. Withstanding fierce winds we were gathering on deck to witness the first picturesque villages with Rorbuer houses painted in vibrant red which appeared on the port side. After navigating a narrow channel, we reached Svolvær, port of the iconic Lofoten, one of Europe’s most spectacular landscapes. Was it here that “Friluftsliv”, Ibsen’s idea of getting into a better mood by being outdoors as much as possible came into being, no matter whether for hiking, cross-country skiing or just to collect berries?

On another trip to Norway we replaced the Hurtigrouten cabin with a tent. One night we pitched our tent beneath a waterfall, the next night on the shores of a fjord, sleeping under the stars. This is why I love Norway: Nobody cares if you put up a tent, anywhere in the countryside, as long as you stay at least 150 metres away from the nearest inhabited house. In Norwegian this right is called “Allemannsretten” or simply: The right to roam.