At least once a month since my visit in 2013 I get an email from Ritchie reminding me how beautiful it was, and inviting me to come back. Ritchie is the owner of a collection of wonderfully colored gingerbread houses. Just getting there was half the fun: From the sleepy capital of the main island of St. Kitts whose little action betrayed the name of its main town square, Circus, a slow ferry took me to the twin island’s even sleepier capital, Charleston. We left its colorful Georgian-style buildings and the palm-fringed beaches behind, climbed slowly uphill, passing little Caribbean villages where getting drunk looked like an obvious pastime. In the village of Hollywood the “Poor Man’s Bar” seemed to be the natural choice. Finally we reached, on the foothills of the dormant Nevis volcano, one of the most beautiful lodgings in the West Indies.