The island nation of Trinidad & Tobago is a tale of two islands. The latter is said to be a beautiful tropical island with nice white beaches. I never went. Trinidad, however, the main island, is about everything else but an ordinary Caribbean island. It has almost no bathing beaches to speak of, but it is at the same time Latin American, African, Chinese, Middle Eastern and, above all, also distinctly Indian. It has the Latin American monster of all parties, Carnival, and it has the Indian Carnival called Holi. In 2013 I went, and on my way around mountainous Trinidad, I ate great roti at Rosie’s. I stayed at an Italian cheesemaker’s lodge in Grande-Rivière. By day he gave me a cheese-tasting tour in his cheese dairy. By night I saw giant leatherback turtles coming ashore to lay eggs. When I again went to the beach the next morning, it was full of eggs looking like pingpong balls.